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Tsurugi Setup Notes

Author: Jamie Caracappa

12/29/1996
104301.253@Compuserve.com

The Tsurugi is not complex. There’s not too much to know. I'm thumbing through the manual as I type so I don't forget anything. (All pertains to XX)

When assembling the bevel gear case (page 9) I use 241 loctite in the hole of the beveled gear and on the bolt to make sure that it don't go any where ...same with the universal pin on the other end.

Slide the pin in and apply 241 in the hole that the setscrew will be installed in. This will push the loctite around the pin (insurance).

(Page 11) when assembling "lever B" the screw that fastens the lever shaft to the elevator stay should have 271 loctite ( red ) applied.

Make sure you install EX balls in correct spots on levers i and a...a standard ball in the wrong place will hit the starter coupler ...I think that was crash 28 (caused radio lockout).

On page 14 when assembling the servo slide mount I use a little slow CA inside servo arm A so pitch torque lever splines won't strip under high torque.

On page 21 NEVER go over 10 mm out with the balls on the pitch servo wheel (I did this to try to get more pitch range) the gears in the servo will strip...all the energy from the disk or blades will go down the control system to the servo and it will not be able to take it (the leverage).

Page 23 when installing the fuel tank I slide the tank into the frames too the detent where I want it, then I lift the gyro mounting tray ,stick some black double sided tape on top of the tank and reinstall the gyro mounting tray this will prevent to tank from coming loose later.

On page 26 before assembling the tail blade grips I would suggest removing the pitch control lever screws (4) and apply 241.

I have had them come loose.

The yoke is almost bullet proof ...most crashes don't bent the spindles on them. As for the 0.5-degree coning angle built into the head.

(I was told this is not good for inverted flight?) I have had mine inverted hovering at 2 feet and took my hands off the transmitter to prove to my Xcell

buddy’s how stable it was inverted.

Simply ...the longer the fly bar the more leverage (greater cyclic response). The heavier the paddle the smoother the ride ...then I would say play with the two till its right ...each different brand heli maybe take a different set up. On the Tsurugi a 520 mm flybar and about 40 grams on the paddles feels nice to me.

Page 45 make sure when covering the paddles you remove all dust and oil film off so covering sticks good. Mine came off too many times so I changed paddles. It seems to happen more in the summer on hot days I think the glue loosens up. I'm running about +9 -8 or +10 -9 depending on engine mixture setting. I take a degree out of the bottom and it feel better in FFF inverted. The stock blades are ok but not for 3D. They auto great at 200 grams.

What is nice about the Tsurugi is it's simple and will last for many flights. (As long as you don't drill it ). If you decide to go with the Tsurugi email me while your building and I'll go over it with you. For 3D I use MA pro II paddles w/ one strip on lead (about 36 grams) . I tried heavier, lighter, bigger, and smaller paddles. I like these the best. Right now I'm using a 530 mm flybar (K&S), progressive G blades (655mm, 180 grams). I tried other blades and came back to these I like the way they fly and they auto well too. NHP tail blades (cut to a 9" disc) 10SX radio, piezo 1000 w/ 2700g servo on tail, 4000 on collective.

The Tsurugi flies great out of the box ...like most heli's . But as you advance you play with things to get it to fly the way you like. And were all different. My flying buddy flies custom graphite's also a good heli.... I like the Tsurugi better. (Less problems...More flying).

I have come to realize there is more than one way to skin a cat (or setup a heli) I've learned how flybar length and paddle size and weight, main blade type and weight etc. can drastically change the heli's "feel".

I learned the hard way ...burned lots of fuel had lots of crashes. But had lots of fun, and met a lot of nice guys. I'd say go with the heli that you can get the best parts support. If you go Tsurugi go XX. If you can't get parts you can't fly! If you’re not flying you’re not advancing!

Jamie

The Colorado Rotor-Heads is a group of R/C helicopter pilots based in Denver, with members all along Colorado's Front Range.  Our members belong to many of the Front Range clubs from Colorado Springs to Fort Collins.  As a result, you may see our members at many of the local club fields and even the occasional cul-de-sac.  If you would like to learn more about the Colorado Rotor-Heads, or R/C helicopters in general, please visit our web site at www.coloradorotorheads.com.

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