Night Blades Assembly Instructions

by John Killen

Items needed.

1.  4 x NMH 1.2 volt 260 MAH batteries from batteries plus.
2.  6 x Super bright red LED's.
3.  4 x Super bright green LED's.
4.  1 x Spool 24-gage red wire.
5.  1 x Spool 24-gage black or green wire.
6.  1 x Package of shorting jumpers.
7.  Dremel with carbon cut-off wheel and metal sanding drum.
8.  Drill with 1/16, 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 bits.
9.  BONDO or similar filler.
10.  Gap filling CA.
11.  1 x Set wood blades with covering material.

Step 1.

Mark all LED and battery locations on the bottom of the blade, making sure that the batteries will sit in the thickest portion of the blade (see diagram). You may use the batteries to help mark the exact radius that will have to be cut out. Divide the rotor blades into thirds and mark the three locations (or desired locations) for the RED LED's placing them in the thickest portion of the blade as was done with the batteries. Mark the two locations for the GREEN LED's. The green LED near the center of the blade may go on either side of the middle red LED, the placement is approximately 1/2 inch from the middle of the blade (RED LED location).

Step 2.

Mark all the channels that need to be cut out to accept the 24 gage wire on the bottom of the blade (see diagram). Note the two locations where the negative lead from the battery crosses the negative lead from the LED's. At these locations the channel will need to be cut deeper to accept both wires. Be sure not to cut through the blade.

Step 3.

Using the 3/16 bit, drill all of the LED locations. The two green tip LED's will be sunk in approximately 3/16 using the 1/4 drill bit (NOTE: drill a pilot hole in the tip with the 1/8 bit before using the 1/4 or the tip may split). Once all holes are drilled counter sink the 8 holes a 1/8-inch using the 1/4 drill bit. Remember that the three RED LED's must be counter sunk from the bottom of the blade and the two GREEN LED's from the top.

Step 4

Using your Dremel, cut out all wire channels and battery locations. Use the carbon wheel for the channels and to help cut several grooves in the battery locations. Using the metal drum sander, tunnel out the remainder of the battery slots.

Step 5.

Cutout a small portion of the blade root (see diagram) just large enough to accept the three wire leads and the shorting jumper. These locations will also need to be big enough to accept your "y" harness charge cord.

Step 6.

Using the 1/16 bit, drill two holes in the tip LED location for the leads from the GREEN LED to pass through. Drill these holes at an angle as shown on the diagram to meet with the wire channels.

Step 7.

Glue all of the LED's and the batteries into their respective locations. The 6 RED LED's face up and thc 2

GREEN LED's face down. Place the long (positive) lead of the LED's to the right as viewed from below

and the short (negative) lead to the left. Place the tip LED with the long lead to the positive channel of the LED's/battery and the short lead to the negative channel of the LED's.

Step 8.

Cut wire lengths to the approximate size of the channels, strip the ends and 1/2 inch sections off at the LED locations for the leads off the LED's to solder to. Use red wire for the positive leads, green or black for the negative leads off the battery and LED's.

Step 9

Make all solder connections to the LED's and the batteries (NOTE. I had the two 1.2 volt batteries solder tabbed together at Batteries Plus and soldered the positive and negative leads myself). Test light operation by jumping the negative lead from the battery and the negative lead from the LED's to complete the circuit (see diagram).

Step 10.

Glue all wires and batteries into place. Use gap filling CA the full length of all wire leads and around batteries to help strengthen the blades at these areas.

Step 11.

Using BONDO or similar, fill all areas that where cut or drilled into the blade, this will also help in the strength of the blade. Sand the entire blade making sure not to adversely effect the shape of the blade.

Step 12.

Using the lead weight provided with your blade set, adjust for desired weight and CG corrections to bring the blades into balance with each other. Check blades mounted to the rotor head on a Hi-Point balancer or similar device. Fill the lead slots as suggested by blade manufacturer and recheck for balance.

Step 13.

Check all surfaces of the blade to ensure a smooth finish and cover using the desired method.

NOTES:

	Green LED (center) faces down and the other is mounted on the tip
	Red LEDs face up
	All wires and batteries are cut into blade
	Batteries are 1.2 vold NMH 260 MAH rechargeable
	Use CA along all wire channels and batteries to help harden weak spots
	Use BONDO to fill in all wire channels and battery cut outs
	Insert desired amount of lead weight at blade tip
	Sand all rough spots and excess BONDO trying not to change the shape of the blade
	Cover blades with desired covering film

The Colorado Rotor-Heads is a group of R/C helicopter pilots based in Denver, with members all along Colorado's Front Range.  Our members belong to many of the Front Range clubs from Colorado Springs to Fort Collins.  As a result, you may see our members at many of the local club fields and even the occasional cul-de-sac.  If you would like to learn more about the Colorado Rotor-Heads, or R/C helicopters in general, please visit our web site at www.coloradorotorheads.com.

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